Ladybug Arborists

Maureen Sexsmith-West ISA Certified Arborist, PR4600A Who would have thought that just eight months ago, when I hung up my shingle as a self-employed Certified Arborist that I would be receiving such a great honour. Having a skill to offer is one thing, but running a business is a totalling different matter. I was really fortunate to have had the opportunity to attend the Self-Employment Program offered through execuserv plus inc. here in Lethbridge. They lay a great foundation for aspiring business owners to learn the hard reality of what it takes to start and operate a business. Gillian and Leigh delivered a fantastic program with top notch, local speakers who challenged us to really think about every aspect of business management. They offered moral support, counselling on ideas and their own experience of running a business. It was there that I learned about the Chinook Entrepreneur Challenge. The Chinook Entrepreneur Challenge, facilitated by Community Futures, included more training with local experts in their field. All the people associated with the program were informative and were genuine in helping small businesses identify pitfalls and offered tools to overcome them. Having organized large events for the ISA Prairie Chapter, I know how much work goes on behind the scenes. I give a big HIGH FIVE to Geoff Rougeau for all his hard work as program coordinator. The staff at their office are great – friendly, encouraging and knowledgeable. They don’t give you the answers – they present the right questions that help each individual business come to conclusions that suit their unique product/service. It is wonderful to have such a great resource in our City. The participants were from all walks of life, techies, marketing, retail, service industry – and from all over the Chinook Region. All with an idea that needed development and nurturing. Probably the single most important lesson to all of this training is the importance of having a business plan. If you don’t where you want to be or how you want to be viewed, you can flounder around and get no where fast. I must admit it involved a great deal of ‘overtime’ and self sacrifice but it has definitely been worth it as I have confidence moving forward and a whole list of mentors to help when pot holes come along the road. The program wouldn’t be possible without the huge support from the local business community. They have offered up huge donations of cash and services that were distributed between the six winners (three from general and three from technology streams). What new business wouldn’t appreciate such a wonderful gift as they are starting out. It opens enormous possibilities of capital investment, staffing and business development that, in original plan, were somewhere off in the future. The first phase included preparation of a 20 page business plan. For someone who is seldom short for words, compressing my thoughts was probably the biggest challenge. I guess this can be viewed as another good management lesson in becoming more efficient. As a finalist, I gave a 20 minute presentation ‘dragon’s den style’ to a panel of four judges: Bruce Thurston: Management Consultant with Results Based Leadership Brent Lloyd: Management Consultant Michelle Steele: Sales Manager for ClearSky Radio Kerry Dalton: Relationship Manager for ATB Financial While anyone would be understandably nervous with such successful, influential people to pitch their concept to, they offered excellent feedback on the presentation and great suggestions and support for the journey forward. I will take all their advice as I move forward. I would be remiss if i didn’t include the list of all sponsors and partners for without them, this program would not exist. PLATINUM SPONSORS ATB Financial RINSA (Regional Innovation Network of Southern Alberta) ActionCOACH business coaching K2 communications, Video Production Services Gold Sponsors MNP, LLP Stringham Denecky, Barristers and Solicitors tecconnect, An Alberta Centre for new Commerce Clearly Interactive 94.1 CJOC and 102.1 CJCY Government of Alberta, Human Services APEX Southern Alberta Regional Innovation Network Silver Sponsors Hunt Insurance Agencies Ltd. ypm Chartered Accountants cybf.ca Canada’s Entrepreneur’s Gateway Lethbridge Vehicle Licensing & Registry University of Lethbridge Bronze Sponsors South Grow Regional Initiative Business Development Centre Lethbridge Tactical Supply Tourism Futures I would encourage anyone starting out to participate in these programs. execuserv plus inc. Community Futures, Lethbridge Region They will also be organizing the Women in Business Showcase this fall. You may not be the big winner, but your business will be a winner all the same. THANKS TO EVERYONE ! Good Luck and much success to the other people who participated in the programs. #Uncategorized

Maureen Sexsmith-West Certified Arborist PR-4600A PRUNING POINTS Understanding what is typical growth for the species and age of tree are very important when determining where and how much to cut off. This is a healthy vigorous spruce showing last year’s growth with several buds set for the next season. It can help you decide where and what needs to be pruned off and how soon it will be grow back to that point. Spruces and Pines need to be pruned to a bud or to a twig 1/3 third the size of the branch it is attached. Junipers and Cedars need can be pruned to a point where there is live tissue to take over the role of terminal. Hard shaped evergreens are more susceptible to insects and diseases. This can be attributed to the lack of sunlight penetrating the inner portion of the canopy necessary to keep evergreens healthy. Other contributors is the introduction of internodal cuts as these can allow entry points for diseases. Avoid removing more than 1/3 of the new growth each season or you will eventually end up with dead sticks or patches that won’t recover. There MUST be green at the end of each stem or twig. By employing a variety of pruning techniques some shrubs can remain while others are best removed. Seek advise from a qualified professional. NEVER TOP A SPRUCE It needs to maintain a single leader to direct moisture to the root zone and to manage snow loads. Topping usually results in competition and multiple leaders develop. Multiple leaders are subject to failure and should be evaluated. Strive to keep branches from becoming over crowded and rubbing on each other through thinning and removal of deadwood. Selective thinning can open-up the canopy and allow some sun to penetrate into the inner part of the tree – enabling leaves to receive sunlight and remain attached longer. Candling of Pines or shaping is best achieved when the new foliage is fully extended but still flexible. Once the branch has no live needles, it will never reproduce leaves on it. Use extra care when working with ‘dwarf’ or altered varieties. Removal of growth regulating hormones can result in the plant adopting some of the parent growth genes as shown here. NEEDLE SHED Spruce, pine cedar and juniper will naturally shed needles. The oldest foliage in the inside of the conifer, closest to the trunk, turns yellow or gold, then brown and eventually falls off. Shedding happens most frequently late in the season. Usually, this process goes unnoticed because it is gradual, but sometimes many needles will discolour all at once. This can be very alarming as it can look like the tree is dying. Although needle shed is a regular occurrence, keeping evergreens as healthy as possible with good watering practices, monitoring soil pH and proper pruning can lessen the amount of needles lost. Stress (drought, poorly-drained soils, improper pruning, transplant shock or insects) to the plant can cause it to drop more needles than normal throughout the season. Some diseases can result in sudden changes and needle loss as well. #lethbridgecertifiedarborist #treeinspections #conifercare #lethbridgearborist #evergreencareproblems #coniferdiseases

Maureen Sexsmith-West ISA Certified Arborist, PR4600A Be alert to changes in your trees this month. Many of the symptoms of local tree diseases will begin to present. Some are serious and some are more of an aesthetic issue. Most solutions are cultural including proper pruning cuts, good air circulation within the tree (don’t rely on 70 km/h winds), sanitation of tools, appropriate watering and avoiding problem plant pairings. There are a whole host of indicators: blotches on leaves, discoloured bark, fruiting bodies, distortions – too many to list or illustrate here. If you notice these or other changes, we would be happy to provide an educated diagnosis and provide strategies for management. A sampling: A common issue we find are RUSTS that result from a pathogen that travels between Hawthorn and Junipers. I am still trying to figure out why this plant combination is so popular with homeowners and landscapers. Here’s hoping. This problem is primarily an aesthetic one. The pictures illustrate typical problems. The Hawthorn has a rusty ‘spot’ on the top side and this curious ‘upside down spider’ on the bottom. On Junipers the infections are slimy in June and harden into a nut-like gall on the twig. The ability for the pathogen to travel a large distance means even if you remove your juniper, your neighbours is still likely to be the allelopathic partner. Cytospora Canker is a disease that affects primarily spruce trees but can show up on pines. Branches will ‘flag’. Fire blight: affects apples, pear, mountain ash, hawthorn, cotoneaster. Fire blight is a systemic disease. The term “fire blight” reflect the appearance of the disease (blackened, shrunken and cracked, as though scorched by fire). Primary infections are established during flowering and tender new shoots. Black knot: The characteristic feature of this disease is the presence of thick, black, irregular swellings on twigs and branches. I think it looks like “burnt marshmallow on a stick”. The galls are easily seen in the winter. The disease is difficult to notice during the early stages of infection. It takes two seasons to complete the cycle. Old knots enlarge every year and may range from ½” to 1 ft. in length. Fungus in old knots may invade other tissues to form new knots. Occurs on trees in the Prunus family: Mayday, Schubert Chokecherry, Chokecherry. Possible on Plum. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mhACtuV5s1c&feature=player_embedded #lethbridgecertifiedarborist #lethbridgetreecare #lethbridgetreediseases #lethbridgearborist #lethbridgetreeservice #lethbridgetreeinspections #lethbridgetreehealthcare

Maureen Sexsmith-West ISA Certified Arborist, PR4600A Over the past week, the newest season of insects have arrived with huge appetites. Only about a half inch long at this point, their rapid transformation from egg to pupa involves continuous feeding. Identification in the early stages allows for an action plan that can greatly reduce their impact. Each tree has a range of insects that utilize new foliage as a food source. Having studied these critters and their feeding patterns for years, we have the full understanding of what is serious and what is not. Some pests, can result in significant foliar damage. Depending upon the season, the tree may be able to reproduce another set of leaves. This takes a great deal of energy and can set your tree’s ‘bank account’ into the red. When it comes to decision of what to do with insects in your trees, it is necessary to understand the type of damage they do and what consequence this can have for your trees/shrubs. Some create ‘aesthetic’ damage, others can result in tree mortality. Prevention is always the best medicine. Good Cultural Practices should always be your first line of defence. This includes regular deep watering and routine pruning. These two things go a long way to prevent the pheromone releases that attract pests to a stressed tree. Keep in mind that stinging insects are also busy – check for hives or wasp nests before working in or around trees. Junipers seem to have a special attraction for wasps. Defoliators – Leaf Chewers: Simply put, your leaves or needles start disappearing or are full of holes. Some beneficial insects cut out and use leaf matter to build nests so it is important to get advise from someone who knows the difference. Digested food can sometimes resembles poppy seeds on your deck. Skeletonizers – Leaf Miners Leaves will have irregular transparent sections. Wood Boring Insects Can be very damaging. The majority of their life cycle is spent under the protection of the bark. ‘Woodpeckers’ drilling holes into your tree are likely seeking out larvae to feed upon. Wood borers come in all sizes. Some as small a pen tip and others 5 cm long. Some species take 2-3 years channelling under the bark to mature. #lethbridgetreeinsects #lethbridgebiologicalcontrols #lethbridgetreeinspections #beneficialinsects #lethbridgetreehealthcare

This is the $100,000 cost saving question. Maureen Sexsmith-West Once you cut if off – you can’t glue it back on. Pruning cuts should be made thoughtfully and deliberately. Why and what you prune can increase or decrease your maintenance requirements and ultimately the cost. Concepts of pruning have evolved for centuries through study of past practices and the affects they have on the longevity of trees. Pruning standards through scientific study are published (ANSI A300) and are used world wide in the preservation and care of trees by professional, trained arborists. The person you hire should follow these guidelines and will not do anything to your tree to adversely affect its health – which in turn will cost your money. The ISA has available Best Management Practices on this and many other topics. Below are simplified explanations. I welcome the opportunity to provide on-site classes for those who want someone to tell you, show you and supervise you as you practice on your own trees and shrubs. We ask – If trees are not pruned in nature, why in an urban setting? Quite often the location, the species, tree age and growth rate, and the number of competing plants will greatly influence your need for pruning. Some trees should be pruned annually (such as apples), most should be routinely kept free of dead wood, and some are season specific (Elm). Here are the reasons to prune. What you need to accomplish is: To maintain health and vigor To reduce risk of failure To manage and direct growth To train a young tree To provide clearance To enhance fruit/flowering production To improve a view or aesthetics To affect privacy, noise, shade values and wind resistance To restructure Before you make cuts, it is important to understand WHY you are pruning and what you want to achieve. For the best results you need to know what species of tree you are working on. Understanding that birches/maples are best pruned in late July or early August, that there is a ban on Elms in Alberta is important. Understanding what is normal for the particular species of tree or shrub, how much it typically grows by examining the twig elongation for the past two or three years all influence the success of your pruning decisions. Understand that removing more than 25% of live tissue will subject your tree to stress. All pruning cuts should be made to the branch collar and a suitable sized lateral. It is important to have a vision for the future. Here is the most effective order of pruning: 1. DEAD, DISEASED OR BROKEN BRANCHES: Insects, fungus, bacteria all enjoy the benefits of decomposing wood whether for food, egg laying sites or hiding spots. When their population gets high enough, they can spread into otherwise healthy parts of the tree. 2. HAZARDS: In order to identify ALL hazards it is necessary to be IN the tree. Many flaws are not visible from the ground. Large dead tops (referred to as stags) should be eliminated. Weak or separating branches should be removed as early in the tree’s life as possible. Just because a tree is tall does not make it a hazard. Cracks, cavities and other structural weaknesses should be evaluated by a Certified Arborist on their potential to result in a limb or tree failure. 3. SIZE MANAGEMENT: Trees get big (some very big) and that is okay. What matters is that they are growing in their natural form there are no pre-existing defect or hazards that would make it unsafe. We see far too often deciduous and spruce trees topped to reduce their size – this actually causes a great deal of stress and the reactionary re-growth presents a more likely liability than the tree did in the first place (For more reading see Post from November 14, 2012). ANY tree can be managed to some extent through a pruning technique called CROWN REDUCTION. The canopy can be reduced in height and volume through removal of carefully selected branches. Pruning is made to a suitable lateral lower in position that can handle the movement of vascular fluids and maintain the role of leader. It preserves the basic form of the tree – allowing for continued enjoyment of shade, habitat and wind break properties. 4. STRUCTURE AND FORM: As branches add new wood each year they require room to grow – they don’t move up the tree – they just get thicker. Prevent damage by eliminating crossing and rubbing limbs. Each species has a typical distance between limbs. The larger the tree the greater the spacing as they age. This does not mean removing all but those branches as they provide food for the tree – the smaller, temporary branches should be culled out as the tree matures. Strive for both vertical and horizontal branch spacing. A method I would discourage is the ‘rounding over’ of deciduous trees – this technique is similar to topping – only a lot more stub cuts. 5. DIRECTIONAL PRUNING: In an urban setting we see trees planted in the worst possible spot – cedars which grow 20 feet directly under the roof eave, trees too close to walks, fences and drives or trees under service lines. What do you do as the tree grows? Short of picking it up and moving it over, directional pruning can solve a lot of long term problems. You can encourage branches to grow over, around and along anything over time. My first suggestion is make better choices when you are landscaping. The proper pruning cut will direct growth away from structures or use areas. This technique if referred to as PROVIDING CLEARANCE. It provides long term solutions requiring less frequent pruning which ultimately saves you money. You should anticipate growth in three-five years when deciding what and where to cut. This method is ideal to address conflicts between trees and overhead services lines. By V-ing out the tree to grow around/beside or under the lines, the tree can maintain a more natural form without causing damage. 6. CROWN THINNING: If a tree has become to heavy headed (too much weight on the ends of the branches) it is beneficial to thin the OUTER canopy. Trees pruned on the inside only result in smaller branches and a tuft at the end. This removes the food source for that portion of the branch thereby weakening the structure. It no longer gains girth at the same rate in response to the tip or heavy end. These branches are subject to damage from winds and particularly snow. Thinning should balance the weight of a limb in relation to the tree. It helps to create a more proportional shape and allows sun light to filter through to the understory and fight against fungal/bacterial growth. It will also allow a branch to sit up higher. Photo Below: Before and After – applying 1-6 WHY prune techniques. The lower limbs were removed to allow for mowing maintenance, a weak branch was removed and we eliminated a competing leader. A few more crossing limbs and presto – a great looking, balanced tree. 7. CROWN RESTRUCTURING: This is sometime required when a tree has been previously topped, damaged by a storm, has substantial deadwood or improperly pruned. It is possible to restructure the tree into a more natural form. This usually takes several growing seasons to accomplish and is best done by or in consultation with a Certified Arborist. #lethbridgetreepruning #lethbridgecertifiedarborist #lethbridgetreecare #lethbridgetreeservice #lethbridgetreeinspections #lethbridgetreehealthcare

Join them Monday May 27 before their general meeting. The plants will be located in the back exit area outside – that’s the exit you use when you leave the theatre gallery. Stick around, enjoy the speaker, have a coffee and meet like minded gardeners. May 27 Marilyn Emann & Shirley Schuler from the Medicine Hat & District Horticultural Society will present pictures of the 2012 Floriade they attended. Floriade is an international exhibition of flowers & gardening, held every 10 years in the Netherlands. The theme for 2012 was “Be part of the theatre in nature; get closer to the quality of life.” The park covered 66 hectares & encompassed 5 unique themed worlds separated by wooded areas. Each world had its own decor, program & activities. They were in worlds in which they saw, felt & experienced nature in a totally different way each time. The 5 worlds were environment, green engine, relax & heal, education & innovation & world show stage. Come & hear what Marilyn & Shirley have to say about their experiences there. Lethbridge Public Library – come early to shop (6:30 pm) meeting to follow. #Uncategorized

Maureen Sexsmith-West ISA Certified Arborist, PR4600A Having just completed the training for the TreeAzin applications with BioForest Technologies Inc., I am even more excited about the value of this newly registered closed system for pest control. Even better is that it is a botanical extract made from neem tree seed kernels. hence their slogan “Trees Saving Trees”. The joint venture between BioForest Technologies Inc. and the Canadian Forest Service over the last several years has resulted in measurable results and high standards for safety. For many people, the idea of pesticides is out of the question. By doing nothing at all, you risk losing a tree or affecting others in your neighborhood. This offers up a biological solution to pest control. It seems that every year (after several years of damage) a new pest or disease issue is confirmed. It then takes more time to find controls. Over this same period, millions of trees die. The cost of disposal, replacement and lost environmental value is hard to measure. For those of us on the Prairies, we have to work extra hard to grow a tree. This helps us preserve them in an environmentally sustainable way. In Eastern Canada, where they are battling numerous tree killing issues such Emerald Ash Borer, BioForest has been able to identify control of numerous other pests such as tent caterpillar, gypsy moth, mountain pine beetle, sawflies, and birch leaf miner. Research trails are ongoing as they are finding interesting results on other pests which were not part of their initial research trials. Aside from being applied directly into the tree avoiding issues such as drift and overspray, the product has been proven to offer TWO YEARS control compared to traditional insect spraying. Treated trees can be growing in the shadow of highly infested ones without consequence. Another amazing statistic is that, even though the product remains in the tree, it is not present in leaf litter so other beneficials (such as earthworms) are not at risk within composters or green waste recycling programs. If you are interested in this type of service, applications are currently underway for this season. Please contact us at 403 634-3062 or by contacting Grant at 403 327-9109. #lethbridgecertifiedarborist #lethbridgetreeinsects #lethbridgebiologicalcontrols #biologicalpestcontrol #lethbridgetreeinspections #lethbridgetreehealthcare

Maureen Sexsmith-West ISA Certified Arborist, PR4600A I did a tour around to update my photo files. I thought it would be fun to put together a piece on the varied types of Maples found growing here in Lethbridge. I probably should have waited until the Canada Day Weekend but you may want to plant your own patriotic tree before then. Maples are one of my favorite trees since most are fast growing and variety of sizes means you can find one to match most urban lots. Pruning should be limited to July/August when you won’t initiate sap flow at the pruning site. This collects dust, attracts wasps and taxes your tree. Sizes below are a guideline since pruning can modify height and spread but it CANNOT make a big tree small. These are thirsty trees – deep regular watering a must to keep them healthy. Maples are fast growing trees and range in height from 6 meters to 25 m. Many of the newer cultivars are better suited to city living. All have samaras (which are winged seeds). On some varieties they turn an incredible shade or pink or red. They require full sun (6 hours per day) and moist, slightly acidic soil. Some are tolerant of saline soils. Leaves are varying shades of green with one deep burgundy. Leaves and twigs grow opposite each other. Yellowing leaves is a sign of nutrient deficiencies in the soil. The roots are shallow and wide spreading and can sometimes become invasive. The seeds self sow which may mean you have several baby trees to deal with in places you’d rather not. Fall colors range from bright orange to brilliant red. There is bound to be a maple to suit your space. A very hard wood, the natural staining within the wood and development of burls makes is a desireable product for wood turning and carpentry. They are prone to some insects and diseases. I have tried to list a few with the species. MANITOBA MAPLE (Acer Negundo) Originally, the only form of Maple found in our area was the Manitoba Maple (or Box Elder). The leaves don’t fit our image of a maple – it is a compound leaf made up of leaflets. It features plain samaras that self-seed readily which is why it is sometimes identified as a weed tree. (10 m x 7 m) It is known for the red staining on the inner wood. It features irregular trunk development called burls. These two features make it very desirable for wood turning and wood crafts. Most commonly found in older Lethbridge Neighborhoods and Parks. New cultivars “Sensation” offering orange fall foliage . CRIMSON KING NORWAY MAPLE (Acer platanoides “Prairie Splendor”) Slightly slower growing. Pretty Yellow Flowers. (10 m x 8 m) NORWAY MAPLE (Acer Platanoides) This is the most mature example I can find (about 60 years of age). It had a substantial crown raising in the past year and all the lower branches were pruned off. Hard to find pure Norway stock for sale. AMUR MAPLE (Acer ginnala) A very hardy, fast growing small tree (6 m x 5 m). Show stopping hot pink flowers followed by pink winged samaras. Growing successfully throughout the City. Tolerant of saline soils – pH imbalance may result in yellowing leaves. Photos show multi-stem form and the pink seeds. Subject to Tar Spot. Red fall color. Elongated narrow leaf form. Available in tree (single stem) or shrub (multi-stem) forms. Left to grow, both will form a ‘tree’). SUGAR MAPLES (Unity Acer saccharum ‘Jefcan’) Yellow, Orange fall color 12 m x 9 m SILVER MAPLE (Acer saccharinum) The largest of the maples in our region. (12-15 m x 9-12 m). Silver grey bark. Extensive Root system. NEEDS A BIG SPACE and lots of water. Golden fall color. #lethbridgetreecare #lethbridgetreeplanting #treeselectionlethbridge

Basic Timelines Maureen Sexsmith-West ISA Certified Arborist, PR4600A In tracking the views on my various blog posts – the most popular by far are the ones with the ‘how to’ tips. Your wish is my command, here is the first of a series of posts for DIYers. There are emergency situations where these basic guidelines do not apply. If you follow these simple rules, your trees will thank you. Knowing why your tree is showing dieback, wilt or leaf changes is the first step. There can be a wide range of contributing problems – drought, insects, diseases, construction damage. Our Certified Arborist offer experienced diagnostic services about problems affecting our region. Once you know the cause – a program of maintenance can be recommended. Pruning is just one possible solution that can help preserve and improve the health of your tree. ANY TIME: Removal of dead, diseased or broken branches should be done as the need arises (with the exception of season specific trees such as Elms, Birches/Maples see below). NOT AT ALL: During bud break – this will vary depending on the tree species. Temperatures below -16 degrees. It is also not recommended in high wind conditions – you have little control over the direction the branches will fall and tearing/peeling is more likely to occur. See Fall also. LATE SPRING (May/June)– This is the ideal time for shaping of newly foliated hedges or live tissue cuts on evergreens. This is the time for planting – trees and shrubs become available at local stores. The arrival of insects tends to arrive in conjunction with flowers and foliage. Identification of the pests is key to making control choices. Spraying is not always necessary. The key is early detection to achieve controls and understanding whether it is a threat to the health of your plants or just a temporary annoyance. FALL (September): Removal of live tissue before the tree has had a chance to store it in the trunk and/or roots will set it back for next season. Avoid making major pruning cuts on any woody plant at this time. Once the leaves have turned and are falling off, you can be confident that it has stored the carbohydrates and starches it produced during the growing season. Concentrate on fall fertilization, applying mulch and deep watering in anticipation of winter. EARLY WINTER (October to January) Once the leaves have dropped, the dormant period is the best time to prune deciduous trees. Be aware that there are some exceptions which as regulated or season specific. ELMS: In an attempt to control the onset of Dutch Elm Disease, the province has implemented a pruning ban which only permits the pruning of elms from October to March. LATE WINTER (February to April) – Lindens, apples, plums, cherry, schuberts, mayday, tree lilacs and mountain ash are best pruned at this time to affect fruit production and flowering. SPRING (April/May) – this is the time the tree is breaking bud – NO PRUNING SHOULD TAKE PLACE other than dead wood removal on trees. This is a good time to rejuvenate old shrubs. Also a good time for root pruning. Concentrate your efforts on planning, getting estimates, fertilization and watering. WATCH FOR FLAGGING – this is the unseasonal changes in foliage evidence by wilting, drying out or browning off. This an indication of either insect and disease damage which should be dealt with immediately to prevent spreading. It is also another indicator of mechanical or structural damage – essentially the branches has been broken of injured. And should be pruned away to the most appropriate lateral behind the injury. Pruning cuts should always be made to a bud or branch 1/3 the size of the branch it is attached to so it can manage the flow of vascular fluids. DO NOT LEAVE STUBS or make TOPPING cuts. During the summer months, ALWAYS disinfect tools when working on diseased trees. Watch for our post on pruning techniques soon. #lethbridgetreepruning #lethbridgecertifiedarborist #lethbridgetreecare #lethbridgetreeservice #lethbridgetreeinspections

Maureen Sexsmith-West ISA Certified Arborist, PR4600A Diagnostics and a full understanding of insects knowing whether they are beneficial or destructive, their life cycle, control measures, etc. is essential in my line of work. I am always on the look out for new specimens to add to my photo and insect collection. Each insect plays an integral part in the ecosystem. Some help break down organic matter, some feed on other insects, some pollinate, and others feed on plant tissues (some causing minor damage, some transfer diseases, while others can kill a tree). They can end up as food for a whole range of birds and animals. Whether you love them, are afraid of them or hate them – I FIND INSECTS FASCINATING! I spend a great deal of my spare time learning all that I can about them. I thought I would highlight a few of the GOOD GUYS that can sometimes be mistaken for ‘yucky’ bugs. As the season progresses, I will post a few more. LADYBIRD BEETLES (aka Lady Bugs) are easily known in their adult form. In our region, we find the seven-spotted variety. Their life cycle is about 4-6 weeks. In the Spring, females lay up to three hundred eggs in yellow clusters under a leaf or on a stem near an aphid colony. The number of eggs depends on the availability of aphids to feed upon. Within a week, the eggs hatch into tiny ‘ALLIGATOR SHAPED LARVAE’ and join the parents feeding on many insect pests. After 3-4 weeks the larvae pupate and one week later the young adult beetles appear. Ladybird beetles can have several generations per year, depending on climate. OTHER GOOD GUYS #Uncategorized

Maureen Sexsmith-West ISA Certified Arborist, PR4600A Cracks are one of the most important indicators of structural weakness in a tree. FROST CRACKS: Our region is both blessed and cursed with Chinook winds. For plants and trees the increase in sudden temperature signals the coming of spring. Most significantly is the movement of sap. Prolonged periods of mild temperatures followed by a sudden drop can cause the either the trunk to split or branches to crack because fluids freeze and expand. Swelling leaf buds are also susceptible to frost damage. Frost cracks are common in our region. They are generally found on the west and/or south side of trees but can originate at a point where previous damage was done (mower damage, poor pruning cuts). They appear to close in mild weather and open when cold. Smaller cracks in the cambium (or bark) can provide access to the inner wood of the tree where disease and fungal matter can cause extensive damage. Repeated injury can occur from year to year, never allowing the tree to fully repair the split. STRESS CRACKSresult from heavy, wet snow loads and over-thinned (lion tailed) branches under wind loads. The branches will either break free or will bend but will not rebound to their original position. Stress cracks are most often found on top of the branch and are not easily detected from the ground. Some branches may remain but pruning to prevent further damage is recommended. The void allows increased sunlight into the canopy and branch will begin to grow or old ones with fill in the void (phototropism). Not every crack is bad – it is the position on the tree and the depth of the crack which make it a potential hazard. Cracks which appear at or near the crotch of limbs compromise the holding strength of the wood. Your Certified Arborist can provide you with an expert opinion on the safety or hazard potential and advise you on the best course of action. In some cases your tree can be stabilized using specialized bolts and cables. This procedure can be costly and should be weighed against the overall age, value, function and location of the tree. Proper placement and the number of cables used is determined by the characteristics of the particular tree. It should allow for movement and be installed a specific distance above the defect to be effective. Annual inspections are recommended to ensure the system is still sound and pruning scheduled about every three years to manage end weight should also be part of your long term aftercare program. Depending on tree condition, further options such as removal of any potentially hazardous branches or complete removal and replacement may be presented. CHECK UP: Take time to observe your tree from ALL SIDES and in ALL SEASONS. Become familiar with how your tree looks from year to year and you will soon be able to notice irregularities. Early detection can save your tree. Keep a photo journal and monitor any changes. Preventative care is always your best option. Contact us for a professional risk assessment. #lethbridgetreepruning #lethbridgecertifiedarborist #consultingarboristlethbridge #lethbridgestormdamagedtrees #lethbridgetreeinspections #lethbridgetreehealthcare

Maureen Sexsmith-West ISA Certified Arborist, PR4600A A tree is made up of a complex system that includes several layers: Bark (outer layer of hard dead cells) which protect the living cells from injury, sun damage, hail damage, etc. The layer of ‘green’ actively growing cells that include the xylem and phloem (these transport water and nutrients throughout the tree) Heartwood – non-living wood cell When the protective outer bark layer is damaged, several things happen. The flow of sap from roots to shoots is interrupted. If enough of the bark is damaged, the tree can no longer transport sap and the tree will die. Young woody plants are particularly vulnerable to this type of damage because of the thin nature of the bark, but some varieties of older trees with thin, smooth bark are also susceptible (Birch, Mountain Ash, Linden). Trees are much more easily damaged in the spring when the tree is putting on new growth. Trees can be seriously damaged by small wounds, especially with repeated injury. Damaged trees can grow poorly and branches may sucker and / or die. Wounds provide entry points for pathogens and decay. In the worst cases, the fungal decay nay become severe enough to compromise the long-term health or structural integrity of the tree. Mechanical damage occurs when a tree is injured by human activity or a non-natural injury occurs. Damage to vegetation from equipment can be simple carelessness or incorrect use of the equipment. Typical mechanical injuries include: being repeatedly struck by a lawn mower (trunk or limbs) weed trimmers strip bark away from the trunk excavation, stockpiling (grade changes) girdling from tags, labels, guy lines or stringed lighting Other examples: carving of initials attaching nails and screws, signs pruning cuts attaching chains, extension cords, etc. “Mover Blight” This is a very common cause of tree injury. Damage to trees and shrubs occurs when weed whippers and lawn mowers break the cambial tissues. Sadly, this type of injury is often repeated routinely, with cumulative damage. Typical injuries to trees and shrubs include gouges and cuts through the bark into the cambium, where cells actively divide. These injuries are often close to the ground and easily invaded by insects and disease causing agents. Monitor lawn care activities (self or others) – see Prevention Strategies. Pruning Yes, pruning is type of mechanical damage. When limbs are removed using saws, hedge trimmers and chainsaws, we create an injury. If pruning cuts are made properly, you can minimize the damage and allow the tree to compartmentalize and protect itself. Never TOP your tree. Crossed limbs can rub and cause damage – better to prune them out – they cause more damage than your loppers. Keep in mind season specific trees such as Birch, Maple and Elm. Know when is the best time to prune. Heavy equipment and compaction, Damage from excavations See our earlier post on Construction Damage and Trees. Prevention Strategies Keep grass and weeds from growing at the base by creating a tree well of bark mulch. You can’t damage the tree with lawn care equipment if there is no grass to mow there. Remove weeds or grass by hand when necessary. Removal ALL labels and tags at the time of planting. Remove tree stakes within 18 months following planting to prevent girdling. If you must use a trunk guard, inspect it annually. Repair damage as soon as it occurs. Prune broken limbs to the branch collar. BE CAREFUL THIS SUMMER AND YOU WILL ENJOY YOUR TREE FOR MANY YEARS TO COME #lethbridgetreepruning #lethbridgearborist #lethbridgetreeservice #lethbridgetreeinspections #lethbridgetreehealthcare